My dealer is about $200/hr right now. But the PCM you bought is the correct one as the tear tag and engineering numbers match. This does not necessarily mean that it is presently configured with the correct "as built" data for your car, but it means it can be configured for your car because it has the correct internal hardware.

Since AI says Forscan can do the parameter reset, at least the paid version of Forscan, then that would be by far the cheapest option for you if you insist on doing this yourself.

Forscan is kind of taboo, because it's basically Russian hack software. But the paid version of Forscan is very powerful and has no guardrails. The dealer tools have built in protections to try to keep you from doing something you shouldn't, Forscan has no such protections and you can really mess up a vehicle, potentially beyond recovery if you don't know what you're doing. There are web forums that show you exactly which bits of as-built data to change in a module to change specific configuration settings/add features etc. This is information that I don't even have access to at a dealer, because Ford doesn't want that information out there. In fact, I have had instances where I spent a great deal of time trying to diagnose ungodly strange problems which turned out to be the result of the customer changing configuration settings with Forscan.

The Forscan website will allow you to download the software and should link you to a method of purchasing the paid version you need for your task, and it's not much money. Their site also recommends some very specific pass through devices that work with their software, and I would only buy one of their recommendations. I have one, but presently I only have the Free version of Forscan so I can't do much more than read/clear codes etc. It's just something I keep as a backup in case Ford screws up a software update on their own tool.

Either way, if you go the Forscan way, I'd watch some youtue videos about how to use it before you try it on your car.