Yo,

The stuff I use from Local maker "Nulon", claims all the Slick-50 blurb, except for the 50,000- mile life-span, they recommend a 12-monthly bottle refresher...

Anyhow, your concerns are not warranted about clogging your filter or oil galleries, since the PTFE particulate is apparently claimed to be less than 5-microns in size, & I think the best of oil-filters can only filter from 10-microns & over.

The deal is, once you've completed your regular oil & filter change, drive for 10-15 minutes on the free-way to warm everything through to normal operating temperatures, pull-over, shut the motor down, & pour it in. Then you simply go for a further drive or return home, & let the good-times-roll yo !

The idea of putting it into a new motor ( once broken in ), is to keep it like new, & add life to the new internals.

Over 80% of engine component wear is attributed to start-ups, & no oil being present. Slick-50 PTFE type additives will be present.

The choice is yours.

* The Hayabusa has now around 120,000 - miles / 200,000 - km under its belt, & I put the stuff in it at around 40,000-km, & put 100-mls in each oil change. I also mix my oils with 2.5 ltrs semi-synthetic, & 0.5 ltrs full synthetic, with no issues or complaint. Gearbox operation is fine, & I'm still using the original timing-chain & clutch...And sure, there's no-where-here in Tas to stretch her out to 200-mph, but I do take her out to at least 150-mph once-a-month or more, depending on road conditions.

Good stuff.

Yo,

Whilst we await PowerStrokers "speculative" response from the above posts questions ( though we already know what they might be ), here's a short video from Nick's Garage that compares the modern simple fit-up carb-style "throttle-body EFI" system that automatically tunes itself, against a finely-tuned carburettor set-up, both of which aren't on PS's 460 V-8...It is food-for-thought for PS, since he has one-hell-of-a-strong monster motor...(Certainly the next owner will have big smiles & things to look forward too someday)...

*I have a friend who has a now supercharged 5.7-ltr Aussie GM V-8 ( Bored & stroked 308 ), & he loved the results after fitting up the " Holley throttle body EFI" system, though he did say that the fuel bill was huge, though this was before the supercharger was fitted, & an over-kill, full roller racing cam fitted in there that had something like 0.650" lift on the intake lobe lol ! It's improved dramatically now with the supercharger fitted.

The idea here with the "throttle-body-EFI" is the availability of running whatever cam you want, & the EFI system simply tunes itself into the package, ensuring easy starts, great economy, & perfect fuelling for your build. They also come many varied sizes to suit your needs, & are not as expensive as you may think. Possibly the main issue is ensuring the fuel-lines are up-to-scratch etc to handle the conversion, if you ran a carb-set-up originally...Anyhow, let Nick fill you in, as it will stop me typing yo !

Enjoy !

-- Edited by Rastus on Friday 5th of July 2024 02:21:21 AM

Yo,

Thanks for your replies PowerStroker, much appreciated. All this helps anyone who reads through the thread I hope, so I appreciate your persistence, even if some parts of the questions seem lame, or that you've already covered answers in your own posts, especially since there's 2 x threads on this important matter.


Q's. You mentioned before that your truck has 3.55 gears in the diff, & has an over-drive capable transmission...

(a) What is the engines RPM when cruising at 65 MPH in top-gear / overdrive ?... ( 65-mph is close enough to 100-kmph in the metric world ).

(b) Should your truck not have a tachometer, what are the dimensions of your tires ? ( I can workout RPM if I know your tire size for 3rd gear which is normally a 1:1 ratio ).

Yo,

Thanks PowerStroker...1.800-RPM is a slow turning motor at those speeds. The 3.8-ltr V-6 I had in my wagon used to sit about the same, & had the same gearing, but was always keen to drop-back a gear into 3rd when ever throttle moved, or uphill load was felt. I dare say yours could & does sit there & effortlessly pull through any circumstance apart from WOT.



Q. Under the above circumstance of cruising at 65-Mph in overdrive, if you move to WOT, to you have a double-kick-down into 2nd, or does it slip into 3rd gear only ? I only ask since 3rd gear is typically a 1 : 1 ratio, which would have originally been top-gear in the days of 3-speed-autos.

Q2. We've seen the superb extractor assembly that you've fitted-up, & that no-doubt adds a few Hp-numbers for a number of reasons, but what does the rest of the system contain ?...Is it a full duel system with twin O2 sensors, or does it turn into a single system after / before the Cat ? Could you tell us the exhaust tail-pipe diameter(s), & how does it sound ?...

Rastus... my little 302 Mustang sports baby blue neck 24lb/hr injectors... yes it's a little fat, but only because it was built for nitrous.

Your math is wrong... 

.020 overbore puts it at the absolutle LIMITS of range... yes it will run! But he's leaving a lot of HP on the table!

Doesn't matter though, you can take a horse to water -- but you can't make it drink.

 

 

SELLC wrote:

---

1. Rastus... my little 302 Mustang sports baby blue neck 24lb/hr injectors... yes it's a little fat, but only because it was built for nitrous.

2. Your math is wrong... 

3. 0.020 overbore puts it at the absolutle LIMITS of range... yes it will run! But he's leaving a lot of HP on the table!

4. Doesn't matter though, you can take a horse to water -- but you can't make it drink.

 

 

---

 

R1. That means absolutely nothing Stellar. The fuel pump, its delivery pressure & volume are the important things to note for EFI.

R2. It's possible that my maths is wrong, that's why I posted it up, so people could check-it-out & correct if necessary.

R3. Stellar, it's true via my calculations that the increase in engine size is only a little over 4-cubes, ( or 70-cc's )...70 cc's is maybe a little over a small mouth-full of coffee...Or as a percentage, it looks like this...

 

100 /460 = 5/23 = 0.2173913043.

0.2173913043 x 464 = 100.8695652.

The 100 = 100%...the 0.8695652 is the increase in capacity as a percentage.

The capacity of the engine has increased less than 1%. I'm suggesting that the electronics will handle such an insignificant increase in capacity...

 

Also, lets say that the 460 has 100% volumetric efficiency...

 

460 x 4,000 rpm = 1,840,000 cubes of air it will move through it.

464 x 4,000 rpm = 1,856,000 cubes of air it now moves through it.

 

100 / 1,840,000 = 0.00005434782.

0.00005434782 x 1,856,000 = 100.8695652.

The 100 represents 100%, & the 0.8695652 represents the increase in air-flow as a percentage, less than 1%.

 

Also, PowerStroker indicated that the EFI circuit moves from closed-loop into open-loop at WOT...This likely means that the map-presets are not used, & that the maximum amount of fuel is delivered until a cruise status is achieved, since basically its a safety protocol that's used as the data cannot be processed fast enough by the ECU.

This protocol applies to all EFI systems when at WOT.

No doubt larger injectors & / or increased fuel pressure will aid power delivery, & PowerStroker has ensured that the correct pressure is available via his 2 x pumps, one of which is a new one...

 

Now, on the basis of 100% volumetric efficiency ( for easy calculations only ) & your Stang revving to say 6,500 RPM...

 

302 x 6,500 = 1,963,000

302 x 5,000 = 1,510,000

 

100 / 1,510,000 = 0.00006622516

0.00006622516 x 1,963,000 = 130

1 = 100%, with the 30 = 30% additional air-flow. That's why the Stang needs larger injectors & greater fuel volume.

Did you notice that your Mustang at 6,500 RPM has far more airflow than PowerStrokers truck ???...

The deal with the 460, is that it's a massive engine, & its displacement is available up to 4,000 RPM. At some point in the rev-range, your 302 flows more air than the 460...

 

Based on the STD numbers available above for engines in STD trim, it calculates like this...

100 / 1,840,000 = 0.00005434782

0.00005434782 x 1963000 = 106.6847826.

The 1 = 100%, the 06.6847826 is the percentage of air the 302  flows more than the 460 at maximum RPM.

 

R4. There's a difference between drinking & thinking yo !

No nukes are good nukes !

 

 

-- Edited by Rastus on Tuesday 9th of July 2024 05:42:49 AM

SELLC wrote:

---

Rastus wrote:

---

R1. That means absolutely nothing Stellar. The fuel pump, its delivery pressure & volume are the important things to note for EFI.

---

 

1.If you think fuel injectors mean nothing on an EFI engine then you should go back to automotive school.

2.Even most factory pumps (unless worn out and weak) can support a bump in injector size... typical pressures range from 45-60 psi on this era of FI system.

3.When upgrading injector size, even on a mass air vehicle -- said mass air meter must be calibrated for the larger injector. My mass air meter is calibrated for 24lb/hr injectors, whereas factory mass airs for my car are only calibrated for 19lb/hr.

4.I'm not saying PowerStroker needs bigger injectors -- BUT, he is maxed out with what they are going to deliver while being driven by his current engine management system. 

5.I'm guessing he put an adjustable fuel pressure regulator on there and has set it for a slightly higher pressure as a work-around.

6.PowerStroker has said he's done and that he's satisfied with things how they are now -- so that means all this is just food for thought and something to knaw on.

---

 

R1. Pump pressures, & delivery volume are the most important aspects Stellar. These 4-Bar pumps maintain 3-Bar constant pressure, which is where regulator pressures are generally set at. This means the remaining volume supplied by the excess 1- Bar pressure is what supplies & feeds the engine under all conditions, which is why delivery-volume is so important..The constant 3-bar pressure ensures correct injector spray only.

R2. It's the amount of fuel / volume they can deliver over time.

R3. So be it.

R4. At a guess, I'd suggest that if Ford make 0.040" over-size piston assemblies, then they'd also ensure that their EFI systems could manage the larger displacement.

R5. He set it apparently to the max. allowable 46 psi from memory.

R6. Correct. He hasn't increased the rev-ceiling at all, so that's why I was discussing exhausts, what he has fitted, & once rotted-out, what he may intend to do after already fitting superb extractors, to get the most out of them & maximize flow of the spent gases.The more shyte-gases out = more good air in = more-power & better emissions.

We have to discuss what benefits the current set-up...And remember that the whole package is dependent on the valve-springs used, their pressure, & how much lift is possible from an after-market cam before coil-bind happens, since a minimum of 0.010" between coils is needed.

The "Voodoo" cam he was chasing which was similar to the one calculated by Competition Cams, is essentially a stock item, but with a little more exhaust lift & around 6-degrees more duration than the stock item. It would have improved breathing further but without necessarily lifting the low rev-ceiling of 4,000 RPM. The engine would have breathed deeper across the limited rev-range. eg, Volumetric efficiency may have lifted from 75% to 85%, over a broader rev-range, improving torque numbers. Too bad he couldn't get one, as that's a real bummer, since it was a known OEM deficiency in design that Ford cast into the heads.

-- Edited by Rastus on Tuesday 9th of July 2024 10:28:26 PM

I'd like for you to quote where I have ever said he needed new fuel injectors or a larger fuel pump! That's just a flat out LIE!

I said he's maxed out on his pre-programed speed density engine control system. 

Let PowerStroker take that brick on wheels up in the mountains and see what happens... I'd also be curious how this thing idles on a nice 90 degree day at an idle with the AC turning on and off... or if he has to slam on the brakes real hard and his booster saps his vacuum momentarily. 

I don't need any math to know that the configuration for which his speed density system was programed is maxed... it's already pulling in more air than programed for with each intake stroke.

I also don't have to get into the fact his roller rockers no doubt are adding in lift... 

These are things that PowerStroker gets to worry about... why the hell do I care? If the laws of physics cease to exist in his engine bay -- more power to F250!

Have no desire to argue about it... not my circus, not my monkeys. 

It looks good -- and isn't that all that matters? 

SELLC wrote:

---

---

 

A picture says 1,000 words lol !

I bet PowerStroker is on his 3-4th box of pop-corn yo !

And it's funny-to-note that you settled-down "after" realizing that your Mustang pulls through more air than his truck lol !

 

There was nothing wrong with your claims Stellar !!! But you have to back-them-up too...All that was offered was the picture above with no narrative...

 

It's tragic that all the cams are back-ordered...I myself would have liked to see the rev-ceiling move to at least 5,000-rpm for all the investment of time & money, especially since he rebalanced the crank & assy. Secondary-node-harmonics generally don't come-in until around 4,400 RPM, so we'll never know how good the balancing actually was, since the engine doesn't rev that high...

On the basis that he managed to get that "Voodoo" cam, or he retarded the OEM can timing by 4-6 degrees, the RPM ceiling would have risen by around 250-RPM in natural spin-over...( Unless there's a rev-limiter in the ECU ).

I'd love to see this motor in a Mustang, with 2.5 gears...It would effortlessly lay rubber anywhere you wanted, & still have a top-speed of at least 125 Mph, even with the 4,000RPM limit. Easy going everywhere yo !

I just posted an injector color chart to show my mustang come with 19# injectors from the factory, and the baby blue ones that are 24lbs... also to show how big they actually get from the factory in Turbo and Supercharged vehicles.

Looks to idle pretty good, at least with the AC off and nobody mashing on the brake coming off a deceleration...

I'm shocked how clean that truck is for a rustbelt vehicle! Bottoms of the fenders and the radiator core support look so clean! 

Once that factory muffler bites the bullet you shoud get a Flowmaster... I think they sound the best, but that is more or less a personal preference kind of thing.

I've always said you did a real good job -- my only issue was with the speed density system limiting HP output, but clearly with a stock muffler it's obvious you're not looking to make the thing into a hot-rod. I'd imagine that truck would sing a pretty song with a nice muffler installed once it was broken in... but your neighbors would hate you every time you fired it up.

You know we gotta give you some sh!t... we don't want you getting spoiled on us!

Yo,

Thanks for the video PowerStroker, that was really cool ! And yes, it answered some questions for sure, plus it showed you won't be needing to replace anything for a while...The whole truck is a sweet one & in great shape for its age imo. Should you bother to reread through this thread come new exhaust time, the general guide-line for any V-8 is a full dual exhaust where possible, where regardless of mufflers etc fitted, the tail-pipes must be at least the same size as the primary pipes of the extractors or larger. That said, if you're forced into a single system, you want a tail-pipe at least double the size of the extractor primary pipe or larger. Never ever go smaller than suggested or you're corking-up gas flow.

There was a massive move to single-tail-pipe exhausts systems here in Oz for V-8's from the late 1980's onwards, where the last 1/2 of the system was typically a 3.0" piping with a single muffler. They were loud, & claimed more power ( lol ), but were noisey-as-hell at around 2,200 RPM + or - inside the cabin, even at light load, & I mean really annoyingly loud, even if the outside noise wasn't too bad. The deal is that there's too much exhaust gas mixing together, & the tooth-filling-pop drone heard is the tell-tale of back-pressure rising & loss of potential power, since the piston loads-up & starts pushing the gas out, instead of turning your wheels faster...Dual systems don't have this issue, & even if some evidence of this phenomena occurs, its at 4,400 RPM or over, well above your red-line. I recommend a dual system when the time comes if possible. You can get 2-in, 2-out Cats, so it should be a possible thing. And in terms of power output, your engine will feel even more easy-going everywhere.


Q. You did a remarkable job imo for going to the trouble of pre-loading the hydraulic lifters, & then adjusting via spanner & Allen-key the roller-rocker, as this eliminates the need of any shims, even if there's automatic adjustment ( within limits ) in the lifter itself, as this equalizes cam-lobe pressure from the valve-springs.

(a) So how did you determine too-tight from too-loose ???

(b) Was it buy feel & pushrod rotation ???

(c) What was your setting choice ???

(d) And how often will checking them be necessary ???

-- Edited by Rastus on Saturday 13th of July 2024 04:59:39 AM

Yo,

Thanks for the excellent reply PowerStroker. I'm sure it will help anyone considering any engine refresh / rebuild, & hopefully they'll follow the same methodology, rather than the "this-will-do" method lol !

Your truck is definitely geared the same as my wagon was, & in retrospect, you did do the right thing in installing a std cam, so as to have that low-down pulling power & vacuum needed to handle the over-drive. Your engine should last a long, long time for sure. And since the rev-ceiling is quite low, I'll answer my own question of it not double-kick-downing at Hwy speeds. It doesn't need to anyhow lol !



Q. You mentioned that you have over 1,200 Miles covered now, so can you feel the engine loosening-up-a-little, & becoming more easier going ?...

Yo,

Q's. On the basis that you don't use a PTFE additive in your motor (* listen to people who have actually used the stuff as opposed to those that haven't btw ), once winter time comes around & its garaged for 3-4 months or more, will you...


(a) Start the motor & run for 5-10 seconds only, every couple of weeks,so as to circulate oil, but leave it cold for longer adhesion to parts, & therefore longer time to drain into sump ?

(b) Not bother at all, & simply remove the distributor & prime via the oil-pump using the electric drill & special tool like at rebuild.

(c) Both of the above.

(d) I'll over-fill the engine with quality oil, & drain it to proper level when its time to get started again.

(e) I'm going to....

-- Edited by Rastus on Sunday 14th of July 2024 11:06:24 PM

Yo,

Thanks PowerStroker. I'm sure many people will learn a fair bit from this thread.


Q. You mentioned that you've driven plenty of these F-250 type trucks with 351 Cubed Windsor V-8's powering them, & you felt that they were very-much under-powered. On the basis that say our host, & the motor in his GM truck wears out, if asked, would you advise to refit with a 7.0 ltr-plus engine knowing that rebuild costs would be similar to the current V-6 in it, but the reward for effort of say fitting a 454 GM V-8 & suitable transmission would be a better option, & a far better bang-for-dollars-spent ?...

*( I ask this question on the basis that you now have a superb, & far-stronger-engine for 1/2 the price of a crate replacement...And on this basis, our host or someone could do the same for a little more out-lay, but still remain well under the costs of a crate replacement engine ).

Yo,

Thanks PowerStroker for such a speedy reply. Yes, it appears that for the last 2-3-decades, the move to an engine & transmission swap has been made more & more difficult. I was lucky when I was younger that the GM vehicles we had to play with were far more forgiving, & such swaps were relatively easy-to-do, & a viable, plus totally economical upgrade to do. Add in the fact that we had GM specific wreckers / recyclers, matters were quite easy to calculate, & parts easy-to-grab. I figured that it was still possible in an easy way State-side, that's all...I suppose buying a wreck / insurance write-off from the auctions is today's only alternative to pick these things up from I suppose.


Q. I noticed that the top-hose on your engine-to-radiator connexion is divided in two, with what looks like a clear plastic filter & tell-tale component. I haven't seen too many of these & was wondering what it actually does, if anything beyond trapping oil or other deposits in case of a cylinder-head-gasket breach ?...

Yo,

LOL ! Thanks again PowerStroker. At least in years to come, you'll notice the colour of your coolant change when it starts to go off...


Q. I noticed that you installed your own cam-bearings, via a special tool that you have.


(a) Do you do many many rebuilds from work or home to warrant its purchase, or was it bought for this 460 rebuild, with others down-the-road in mind ?...

(b) Does this tool allow for cam-bearing removal, or is it install-only ?

(c) Are there marks on the tool that you line-up the oil-feed-holes with, & then align to say 12:00 on the block as you insert the bearing ? How does it work ?

Yo,

Thanks PowerStroker. I clicked on the link & read the blurb which was quite good. The only thing I didn't like was that the price increased to $179:00 since I'm in Australia with such a great exchange rate lol ! It was good how they explained the 2 x types of expandable fittings for the 2 x types of bearing thicknesses. A pretty tricky task I would think none-the-less with nowhere to see from, with the engines valley pretty much filled with cast iron...I suggest that the rear welch plug for the cam is not fitted, so you can see what you're doing lol ! And this leads us into the next question...

Q. How difficult was it to fit the camshaft ? Cam bearings are super-soft & easy to damage, plus you don't know if you've damaged them or not when fitting the cam...All you get is a drop once the cam-journal is cleared each time you move it through, journal for journal...Some V-8 valleys have guide-slots in the casting where you can see the cam-lobes etc when fitted. These can allow a coat-hanger in to help guide the cam through the journals...When I refitted mine, I rotated the block so the gearbox end was on the ground & dropped it in no-worries.

(a) Did you get help & have someone guide it through from behind / the opposite end using a threaded rod or similar ?

(b) Did you perhaps take the motor off the stand, & rested on its gearbox face to then have gravity help you "drop" it in place ?

Yo,

Thanks PowerStroker...It would appear then that the cam-bearings & fitting of the camshaft was completed before the fitting of the crankshaft, but timed afterwards. And for-sure for myself, when I inspected my engine, I had a machine-shop hone the bores & fit new cam-bearings for me ( that I checked positions of afterwards ). I didn't have an engine-stand to work with regretfully, but the little "308" was easy enough to move around, & so dropping the cam in place worked-out really well, much better than when fitting new cams with the engine inside the engine bay, where radiator, condenser & grille need to be removed, yadda, yadda...


Q. (a) The photos show effort you made to get the correct thrust clearance, & I was wondering whether you rotated the crank to check for distortion in alignment each time, after fitting & torquing a bearing cap down ?...( This is done before fitting rear seal )...If the crank gets progressively harder to turn, a twist / bent crankshaft is indicated.

(b) On the basis that you did do this check, how surprised were you at how easy such a massive crank spins once turning each time ?...

-- Edited by Rastus on Wednesday 17th of July 2024 05:57:16 PM

Yo,

Thanks again PowerStroker, & I hope you don't mind answering these questions, even if sometimes you have to repeat from previous post from Page 1...The little "308" GM motor I had has the same rear-seal set-up with rope & protrusion height etc etc...There was also a rubber seal available too, but it wasn't in the gasket set, though now-day's I tend to think the rope-seal is a better option anyway, if only for its soaking properties, so it stays well lubed, & has to be really well-worn before a leak occurs. And its likely to be self-resealing even if it leaks a little from sitting for a long-time. For my part, at the time, 3-Bond-Sealant became available, which is the stuff the Japanese motorcycle manufacturers used, & they never leak oil lol, so I was confident that my refresh would remain leak-free, & it did, & is still leak free to this day lol !

We all know that torque settings are paramount in getting a job done right, since each bolt or nut is equally torqued down to even tension via a torque wrench & OEM settings. Cylinder-head-bolts when lubed with oil under their head etc are adequate at securing down cylinder-heads via twisting & stretching at the torques setting. They also allow for easy removal & cylinder-head removal with the motor remaining installed in the vehicle. You decided however to use high-tension-studs, that offer far greater tension accuracy, simply by limiting twist ( if any ) & allowing stretch to be the main distortion at tension. And lubing oil under a nut & washer ensures even more accuracy.


Q. (a) What was your main drive behind the decision to use studs instead of new Cylinder-head-bolts ?

(b) Is it possible to remove the cylinder-heads from the vehicle, or do you have to remove the motor to replace failed head-gasket(s) ?

(c) Are any of the bolt / stud holes open to water jackets ?

(d) On the basis that the studs holes are blind, are the studs tensioned in any way ? Is Loctite or similar needed for fitting ? ( I ask in case of the stud unscrewing rather than the fastener if you ever need to replace a head-gasket, & it's possible to do in-vehicle ).

Yo,

Thanks again PowerStroker ! And so it appears that its likely that Cyl.-head-bolts stretch & remain stretched, giving correct readings on the torque-wrench, but revealing that the pressure is applied to the blind-hole, rather than the cyl-head itself, leading to gasket failure at some point from uneven squish, & having to do it all again...I'm glad that it's likely that you can still get head-gasket replacement done in-vehicle, that is a bonus, though an unlikely event for a long, long time now.


Q. On the basis that your exhaust does in fact rot-out sooner than later, & you replace it with a full-dual system, would you also be tempted to inspect & replace the camshaft, with one of the viable after-market options that suit Speed-Density, so as to fully realize the the last potential upgrades within "Speed -Density" limits ???...

Yo,

LOL !!! You'll find your ambition, it's just that the monumental task of a full-on rebuild is over, that's all...I only suggested what I said in that in my younger years, I always kicked myself for "not doing it sooner & missing out" after I fitted-up a duel exhaust / extractors, or a new camshaft to my own cars. You'll find-out one-day too, though admittedly here in Australia it was 1986 or so before Cats were mandatory fitment, & they suck a lot-of-power away, as they're regretfully a cork...The US-of-I converted to mandatory Cat use back in 1974 or so from memory...

It takes time & careful thought to decide on the type of Roller Rockers to be used within one's rebuild, & although already expensive to buy, they vary in price within a brands line-up depending on the specifications decided upon...And sometimes that can be decided on by the heads used / fitted...


Q's. (a) What brand did you settle on & why ? ( Apologies if you've answered this already ).

(b) Is the rocker-ratio the same / near stock, or is it around 0.05 larger or possibly more ?

(c) The type you chose appears to be the "best" & adjustable type used for any cam-application, hydraulic, solid, roller etc etc etc. Was this done in case you decide to go radical one-day ?

(d) Did you have to modify / enlarge the cylinder-head bolt-holes & fasteners to suit ?

(e) You checked the valve-stem-tips for a working impression, what results did you find ?

Yo,

Thanks again PowerStroker, a very informed reply, awesome !

qt."With the heads I'm using, and in a truck application where you want low and midrange power, a stock replacement cam was actually a good choice for me. Almost as if the Ford engineers already figured out a good recipe for a truck engine. If I were building a drag race engine, I'd make several different choices, but that's not what I did here".

I couldn't agree more. I only state my bollox from a street perspective & application, & knowing that when the engineers actually do go through the process of testing prototype engines after drafting, the final results usually see camshaft lift & duration numbers reduced, simply in the interests of a smooth, soft idle & sometimes for emission reasons ...Or in other words, they build the prototype engines using different cam-profiles, typically with the intake valve event of 30/ 70 to achieve their Hp goals, so as to initiate production runs. These 30/70 cams are the upper limit generally for a vehicle running a std automatic transmission without a stall convertor, & so remain a road-cam, not a race-cam. However, not needed in a heavy truck, though the right one would work well, even with the overdrive, but Speed Density is another matter altogether, & well covered. Typically with flat-tappet-hydraulic cams, any increase in lift is also accompanied with the appropriate amount of duration, to keep the mechanicals safe, & long lasting. And in the development of these "385 engines", I'm sure they made the best all-rounder factory cam to work well in all 3 x engines, simply by retarding the timing with the larger engines, so that the std cam works well in all of them.

I checked out the Cylinder Head website, & man, do they supply a lot of heads for a lot of engines. And I must say that considering your heads weigh-in at over 70-lbs each, you get a lot of metal for your dollars spent, which was quite reasonable, especially when price checked against the newer heads available for other models... A great deal !


Q.(a) Could you supply the specification sheet, or tell us what you got in detail, as the website fails to indicate flow-rates & valve sizes etc etc. ?...

(b) How did you know about these heads, & who recommended them since specifications aren't available when you click on the links ?... Did you phone them up & discuss ?

(c) I myself am curious to know what the valve-guide upgrade is & what degrees the seats & valves were cut to ?...

-- Edited by Rastus on Saturday 20th of July 2024 04:14:50 AM

Yo,

Thanks again PowerStroker ! I suggest that the "promaxx " link doesn't fully open, possibly because I'm here in Australia, & they won't mail out here lol ! The Parkland site was very co-operative however, & I see what you mean about the prices...

Within the Parkland description, is mentioned what I mean about the valve-guide inserts. Your regular valve "guide" is actually a hole for the valve, as part of the iron casting. This hole is opened-up to the next valve-stem-size, & then refitted with a manganese-bronze insert, that's self lubricating, & takes a long, time to wear-out, whilst returning you back to std size valve-stems. Here's the cut & paste...



qt."We have found a new source for replacement F3 castings for the venerable 460 EFI platform.

We start with BARE castings machining and outfitting them the Ppam way.

Castings have hard exhaust AND intake seats.

Machine operations performed on bare castings requires 6 hours of labor per pair.

Manganese bronze guide liners
Top guides and cut for PC seals
Cut spring seats for spring cups
Top guide boss in intake bowl

3 angle performance valve job

Check and set valve stem tip heights for consistency".


I would suggest /hope that these features at least are already incorporated into your new heads, apart from the larger valves.


We have to remember how hard it is for oil to actually get to the valve stems, with no direct path or pressure from the valve-head onwards, & a seal in the way too. Add in the fact that the intake side has an advantage of vacuum assisting the oil down the stem, but our exhaust valve is under-pressure, forcing any oil out !!! These Manganese-bronze liners ensure lubrication is present, even if the oil is not.


Q. I was curious to know, how much more oil the engine needed when filling-up after the rebuild, when compared to a regular oil & filter change ?...There's a lot of oil that remains in galleries etc etc , & it can catch you out. eg. My old "308" needed about 8.0-ltrs of oil, though usually needs 5.0 lts with regular oil & filter change.